September 13-26, 2024
The Amazon Basin and the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta are two of the most breathtaking and biodiverse regions on the planet, and our recent butterfly tour took us deep into their heartlands. From the lush rainforests of the Amazon to the misty peaks of Colombia’s Sierra Nevada, we encountered an incredible array of butterfly species, each more stunning than the last. This journey wasn’t just about spotting vibrant wings; it was an exploration of rich ecosystems, unique wildlife, and the natural wonders that make these regions so extraordinary. Join us as we share the highlights, rare discoveries, and unforgettable moments from this adventure of a lifetime!
Friday, September 13
The day began with breakfast at the hotel, followed by a comfortable taxi van ride to the Jardín Botánico de Bogotá (Botanical Gardens). The weather was warm and sunny, providing ideal conditions for exploration.
At the gardens, we were accompanied by Stephanie, a friend of our local guide, Fredy. We observed a variety of wildlife, including several species of butterflies, dragonflies, and damselflies, as well as hummingbirds. Notable sightings included a pair of tropical screech owls roosting in a palm tree. The garden also featured impressive orchid displays that captivated the group. After a few hours of exploration, we departed the gardens and returned to the hotel to gather our belongings.
Following check-out, we made our way to Bogotá’s El Dorado International Airport in a large, comfortable taxi van. Due to time constraints, we did not have the opportunity for a formal lunch, but our guide provided a light snack of chicken and French fries, which some participants enjoyed while waiting to board the small Satena Airlines flight to Villa Garzón.
Upon arrival at the Villa Garzón Airport —one of the smallest most of us had ever encountered—we retrieved our luggage and took a short van ride to Posada Turística Dantayaco, passing through areas of road construction along the way. After checking in at the hotel, we were treated to a delightful dinner, accompanied by locally sourced wine brought in specially for the group from Mocoa, marking a pleasant conclusion to the day.
Saturday, Septenber 14
We enjoyed our first breakfast at Posada Dantayaco, and then departed the hotel in two Renault Dusters. We made a quick stop for fuel and to air up our tires, then stopped for snacks and drinks at the grocery store. While waiting for “perfume” to be delivered we enjoyed refreshing drinks at a local bakery in Villa Garzón. After the ‘perfume’ was delivered we continued out of Villa Garzón onto a gravel road that led to our stop for the day, La Castallana.
We began our walk around with plenty of sunshine. Within a few steps of our vehicles we spotted our first Panacea prola. We continued along the gravel road close to the river and spotted a few Colombian Black-handed Titi monkeys.
Fredy walked ahead and put perfume out for the butterflies.
Pretty quickly we had our first hairstreak of the day, Rubroserrata ecbatana, which landed on Karl’s camera. We saw several great species including, Marpesia themistocles, several Arawacus separata, and Thestius meridionalis.
When we returned to the cars, one car had a deflated rear tire. Luckily, Fredy had a portable air compressor that temporarily fixed the issue. Once we had our tire issues sorted, we drove back to town and stopped for dinner at Restaurante El Rincon Campestre. Before returning to the lodge, we made a quick stop at the grocery store to get drinks and snacks for the next few days.
Sunday, September 15
The day began with a dramatic shift in weather after a night of heavy rain. The morning skies cleared just before breakfast, bringing sunshine that invited participants to venture outside and explore the hotel grounds. As they walked through the area, they enjoyed the sights and sounds of local wildlife, including a group of monkeys that made their way through the trees. It was a perfect start to the day, with the fresh air and the promise of more discoveries to come.
After a hearty breakfast, the group was ready to set out for their next adventure, and were soon on the road, heading toward Parque Suruma Centro Experimental Amazónico (CEA), a short five-minute drive from the hotel.
Upon arrival at the CEA, the group was immediately greeted by a male howler monkey in the parking lot. After parking the vehicles, Fredy led the group to the designated trail, where he went ahead to bait key areas with butterfly “perfume” to attract the local species.
What followed was a highly productive day of butterfly observation. As the group walked the trail, they encountered a variety of beautiful and rare species, including Asterope degandii, Asterope leprieuri, and Prepona hewitsonius beatifica. The group marveled at the incredible diversity of butterflies, spending several hours in awe of their surroundings.
On their way back to the vehicles, the group passed a small pond where they observed several large fish and turtles swimming. They took the opportunity to explore an aquatic exhibit at the CEA, where they had the rare chance to see a pirarucu—one of the largest freshwater fish in the world. The sheer size of the fish left a lasting impression on everyone.
The group returned to the hotel, eager to wash up and take a well-deserved break after a full day of exploration. The participants had some downtime to relax and download their photos, taking the time to review the day’s many exciting discoveries.
Monday, September 16
The day started with a familiar pattern of rain, following a wet night that lingered into the morning. A brief power outage in the local area caused a slight delay to breakfast, but the group made the most of the time by chatting over coffee, catching up on photos, and reviewing butterfly identifications. As the rain subsided by midday, the group decided to make the most of the break in weather and set out for the Fin del Mundo trail, just a short walk from the hotel.
After crossing a bridge over a rushing river, the group eagerly began their search for butterflies along the riverbank. The first highlight came early with the discovery of Catagramma pygas cyllene resting on a bridge post—an exciting find. Along the trail, the group encountered a few small streams and continued along the river toward the Karakas property. At 14:00, the group turned back, but not before spotting a spectacular swallowtail: Pterourus bachus, a large butterfly that flew over the river and landed on a nearby tree, giving everyone a chance to snap some great photos. Another exciting find for the day was the only Anteros renaldus of the trip, a stunning butterfly known for its fluffy legs.
By 16:00, the group returned to the hotel, where they had time to relax and review their photos before gathering for dinner at 17:30. It was another wonderful day of exploration and discovery, capped off with a fantastic meal to share their finds and experiences.
Tuesday, September 17
The morning began with birdwatching and coffee on the hotel grounds, and the weather was sunny, warm, and humid—perfect for another day of exploration. Our destination this morning was the Canalendres trail, which leads up to the Hornoyaco waterfall. Hernán, a local guide, joined the group for the day, helping to spot species, assist with gear, and provide invaluable expertise.
The group hiked the trail, and despite a brief rain shower in the early afternoon, the conditions cleared quickly, and the group pressed on. While we didn’t make it all the way to the waterfall, the day was still a success, with several notable butterfly sightings: Croniades pieria, Augiades crinisus, Phocides thermus, Prepona claudina, and Chorinea octauius.
On the return journey, the group made a special stop along a gravel road and had the rare opportunity to observe two pygmy marmosets in a tree, a memorable highlight.
The afternoon included a stop in Mocoa for some necessary supplies, including insect-bite relief (VapoRub), snacks, and drinks. After returning to the hotel, the group freshened up before heading out for dinner at Tardes Campestres, a lovely restaurant a few miles from the hotel. The open-air setting was beautiful, and the food was exceptional. Some participants took the chance to try pirarucu, the same fish they had seen at the CEA, as well as guanabana juice. After dinner, they admired locally made beaded art and wood carvings displayed at the restaurant. The evening was full of lively conversation and great food.
Wednesday, September 18
The morning began with birding and coffee at the hotel. Breakfast was served at 08:00, and the group quickly learned that plans for the day would need to change: the Fin del Mundo trail was closed due to an indigenous ceremony in the area. Instead, the group set out for Nuevo Mundo, a short drive away, where they walked to the Rio Pepino trail.
Fredy, with the help of Hernán, set up baiting stations along the trail with butterfly perfume and bananas to attract species. The group enjoyed sunny, warm weather, perfect for butterfly activity. One of the highlights was the sighting of a clearwing metalmark, Ithomiola floralis cascella, a species that took some time to capture on camera. Other species observed included Napaea heteroea, Morpho deidamia, Tithorea harmonia, and Denivia hemon.
On the walk back to the parking lot, the group was greeted with cold beers and met Santiago, a sweet and energetic 4-year-old local boy who gave everyone an impromptu lesson on the names of colors in Spanish—a delightful moment.
After we returned to the lodge, it was time to say farewell to Hernán, who had been a fantastic help throughout the day. The group had some time to relax, download photos, and unwind before dinner. During dinner, Fredy expressed his gratitude to the group and presented them with thoughtful gifts, including locally made bags, mugs, and pins. The group also had the chance to try Agua Diente, a local spirit, and made a toast to their guides, Robert and Fredy. Dessert—a delicious brownie with ice cream—was the perfect ending to another wonderful day.
Thursday, September 19
The weather started off with a brief rain shower in the morning, but it cleared up quickly, and after breakfast the group set off for the CEA trail. The weather was warm,, and butterflies were active from the moment they entered the trail.
As the group walked, they encountered several species, including Lyropteryx apollonia diana, Pandemos pasiphae, Myselasia eustola, Neruda aoede bartletti, Eresia eunice gudruna, and Stalachtis calliope. The group paused at a small creek near the second bridge for a break and spent some time trying to capture open-wing photos of a Morpho butterfly.
On the way back to the cars, Stephanie discovered a baby tarantula, and the group had an exciting opportunity to observe a troupe of monkeys in the parking lot.
By 16:00, the group was back at the hotel, but there was a bit of a hiccup with room reservations, and some of the group had to switch rooms before meeting for dinner. The dinner departure was delayed until 18:00, but the drive to Mocoa was filled with scenic views of the towering Andes mountains. The group observed the unique driving habits in Mocoa, especially the traffic of motorbikes and scooters weaving through cars with little regard for safety.
In Mocoa, the group visited an artisanal shop to admire and purchase locally made jewelry and crafts. Dinner was at Amazónico, an upstairs restaurant run by an indigenous chef. It was a memorable evening, with great food and a chance to immerse in local culture. After a late night out, the group returned to the hotel just before 22:00.
Friday, September 20
The final morning at Posada Datayaco dawned overcast, a fitting backdrop for our last day at the hotel. After breakfast the group headed to the Canalendres trail for one last butterfly excursion. The cloud cover slowed butterfly activity, but the rain held off, allowing us to still enjoy some exciting finds, including Dismorphia theucharila avonia, Mechanitis messenoides, Helias cama, and Heliconius wallacei flavescens. The slower pace of the day gave everyone a chance to take their time and enjoy the beauty of the area.
Returning to the hotel around lunch time, the group quickly cleaned up, finished packing, and were ready for the taxi van to the airport. We made a brief stop in Villa Garzón for drinks and snacks on the way, and after a smooth flight, we landed back in Bogotá for the night.
Once at the airport, we gathered our luggage and loaded into a spacious van for the ride to Hotel El Campin. After checking in, dropping off our bags, and freshening up, the group made its way to Roca’s Gourmet for a much-anticipated meal. The lively atmosphere, complete with live music, made for a lively evening. We enjoyed delicious food, music, and each other’s company before heading back to the hotel to turn in for the night, gearing up for the next leg of our journey.
Saturday, September 21
After an early wake-up, the group gathered in the hotel lobby to make our way back to Bogotá’s El Dorado International Airport. After we cleared security and we enjoyed a quick breakfast in the terminal before boarding our Avianca Airlines flight. This plane was significantly larger than the one we took to Putumayo, and the airport was much bigger as well. As we flew into Santa Marta, we could see the calm Caribbean waters below, with the mountains of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta rising in the distance.
After landing at Santa Marta’s Simon Bolivar International Airport, the group made a quick stop for groceries before heading to La Veranda Hotel and Restaurant, where we were met by our local guide, Reina. The sun greeted us as we explored the terrace, where we observed numerous birds, butterflies, and moths while sipping on cold beers and fresh juices. The mist rolled in over the mountains, and a rain shower soon followed, but it didn’t dampen our spirits.
Lunch at the hotel’s Calibri Garden Restaurant was a relaxing affair, and after lunch, we continued to enjoy birding from the terrace as we waited to get settled into our rooms. The afternoon brought heavy rain, making for a perfect opportunity to relax and reflect on our recent travels.
The group gathered to review photos and work on butterfly identifications. Dinner followed at 19:30, a delicious meal shared in good company, before heading to bed for some much-needed rest.
Sunday, September 22
The morning started with partly cloudy skies, perfect for birdwatching from the hotel’s porch. We observed hummingbirds, tanagers, and a variety of other species while enjoying coffee. Breakfast was served before 08:00, and soon after, we were loading into three Toyota Land Cruisers for a trip up the mountain.
We soon set off, and as we crossed small creeks and navigated the gravel road, we stopped briefly to photograph a skipper under a leaf. Despite darkening skies and rumbling thunder, we pressed on, hoping for clearer weather. Unfortunately, the rain began moving in, forcing us to turn around near El Dorado Café on the Pro Aves Reserve. We made it back down the mountain and returned to the hotel for lunch as the rain continued to fall.
In the afternoon, the rain subsided, but the clouds lingered. The group set out to hike the Cascada Escondida trail in search of more butterflies. The trail was steep and muddy, but a nice walk nonetheless. On the way back, Susan made an incredible discovery when she looked under a leaf and found a perched Malachite butterfly, a highlight for the day.
Afterward, the group enjoyed some downtime before gathering for dinner. The evening was filled with laughter, stories, and plans for the next day, despite the lingering weather. After dinner, some participants enjoyed mothing by the hotel’s white walls, continuing the day’s insect pursuits until turning in for the night.
Monday, September 23
The day started early with birding, mothing, and coffee around the hotel, under an overcast sky with patches of blue peeking through. Breakfast was served, and then we were on our way headed up the mountain again.
By 09:45, we were on the gravel road, and we stopped briefly at the roadside, where butterfly activity was strong. The group quickly located one of our main targets, the Morpho rhodopteron nevadensis, along with other butterflies such as Memphis pasibula, Diaethria clymena marchalii, and Doxocopa pavon theodora.
After a stop at Asadero Camarita for a rustic meal of mixed meats and yucca, we returned to the hotel where the group spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing, swimming, and reviewing photos.
After dinner, followed by a sweet dessert of vanilla ice cream, the group chatted about the day’s experiences and hoped for better weather in the coming days.
Tuesday, September 24
The morning brought mostly blue skies, a welcome sight after several overcast days. After breakfast, we loaded into our three Land Cruisers and set off. The road took us up into the mountains, where we arrived at our trailhead. The warm, sunny weather provided perfect conditions for butterfly watching, with several species feeding off mineral-rich clay walls, including the Turquoise Emperor and a stunning hairstreak, Panthiades paphlagon.
After midday, light rain began to fall, but we managed to return to the vehicles before getting too wet. We were back at the hotel by 14:00, where we enjoyed a late lunch and were treated to a visit from a Callicore texa aretas. What a stunner!
As the rain continued in the afternoon, we relaxed, enjoying the beautiful sunset from the porch. Dinner marked our last meal at La Veranda, and the group reflected on the wonderful experiences of the past few days.
Wednesday, September 25
The day started clear and sunny, perfect for another butterfly-filled adventure. After a quick breakfast, we headed back up the mountain. As we arrived at the trailhead, we were greeted by a cooperative Morpho rhodopteron that landed right next to the vehicles, giving everyone a chance to photograph it. As we walked up the trail, another butterfly landed on Jim’s leg, allowing the group to photograph this beautiful butterfly up close—an unforgettable moment.
By 11:15, we had a great find in the form of Lymanopoda caeruleata, a stunning endemic butterfly that the group admired before clouds rolled in, signaling the end of the perfect butterfly day. We headed back down to the hotel around, where the rain began shortly after.
After packing up and enjoying snacks in the restaurant, the group was ready to head down to the city for the final leg of our journey. We began the journey down the mountain, passing banana fields and enjoying views of the Caribbean Sea. The group stopped for a meal at Restaurante Brisas Del Mar, where we enjoyed delicious food while watching a beautiful sunset over the mountains. After dinner, Fredy gifted everyone with a special notebook for documenting future butterfly finds.
Arriving at Palomino Sunrise Hotel, the group was settled into their rooms, ready for a restful night before the final stretch of our adventure.
Thursday, September 26
The day started with early birding and coffee, and after breakfast most of the group opted to stroll to the nearby beach. After returning from our walk we loaded into two vans, we headed out to the Don Diego River.
At the river, we met our guides, Roberto and Stiven, and embarked on a walk to a river access point. Along the way, we spotted a Melanis electron melantho. After a short boat ride, we arrived at a resting spot by the river, where we enjoyed cold drinks and the sounds of howler monkeys in the distance.
After returning to our vans, we stopped for lunch at Restaurante Sami El Buen Sabor, where we were treated to a delicious meal by the river. We learned about the purple flower used in their lemonade, and after a satisfying meal, we made our way back to Santa Marta’s Simon Bolivar International Airport, where the journey came to a close.
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